Three varieties of the wonderfully fragrant herb—basil—­are found in tropical Asia. Identification by name can be somewhat confusing in Malaysia and Indonesia, as the names kemangi and selasih are often used interchange­ably, or are used to describe one type of basil in one area and another type in a different region. However, the three plants are distinctly different in appearance and flavour.

            The closest to European or sweet basil (O. basilicum) is the variety most commonly encountered in the region, especially in Thailand and Vietnam. This basil, which is known as bai horapa in Thailand, has intensely aromatic dark green leaves and purplish flower heads. It is often eaten raw as a herb in Thailand and Vietnam, served on a platter of fresh herbs which are added to lettuce wrap­pers for enclosing spring rolls, or nibbled with raw vegeta­bles and a spicy dip. Thin basil is also added (often by the handful) to stir-fried chicken or beef, or to curries, partic­ularly in Thailand.

            Another variety of basil is markedly lemon scented; the leaves are slightly hairy, paler green and smaller than the sweet basil. Lemon basil, which is called bai manglak in Thailand, is sometimes fried with seafood in Malaysia and Indonesia. The seed coats of this basil are mucilaginous; Thai cooks soak them in water until the seeds are swollen, then mix them with coconut milk to make a dessert.

            "Holy" basil (kaprow in Thailand) is sacred to Hindus; this basil has narrower leaves than the two other varieties and is less commonly used in regional cuisines. The herb releases its flavour only when cooked, and is used with fish, chicken and beef.

            All three types of basil can be grown easily in the garden or a pot on a verandah simply by putting several stems into the earth. Discard the leaves at the base of the stem, but keep the upper leaves. Water well and, within a few days, the stems will have taken root and will grow vigorously if given sufficient sunshine and water.