Spices sold throughout Southeast Asia are generally available loose at a spice merchant or market, or packaged in either glass jars (these are most likely imported) or in cellophane bags. As there is usually a considerable turnover of spices, they are generally fresher than those found in the West.

            It is important to buy whole spices wherever possible. The flavour of those which have already been ground to a powder will be greatly diminished, unless you buy from spice merchant who grinds his spices regularly and is likely to have fresh stock.

            Modern housewives in a hurry will often buy packaged whole spices. Tradi­tional Asian cooks, however, like to buy their spices whole from a spice merchant, plunging their hand into huge hessian sacks full of coriander or cumin seeds to check they do not contain weevils, scratching at bundles of cassia hark to ensure they're really fragrant. After buying the spices, they pick them over and discard any bits of grit, then wash and sun dry the spices before storing them in glass jars. (Plastic containers permit the volatile oils to escape and should never be used for storage of spices.) Some cooks will then measure out their own blend of spices for a curry powder, and take them to a spice mer­chant and -watch them being ground, ensuring that there is no added rice pow­der or any other form of adulteration.

            Because of the generally humid climate in Southeast Asia, spices will keep fresh in a tightly (105ed jar or bottle in a cupboard for 1-2 months. However, to keep there almost indefinitely, store the jar or bottle in the deep freeze or normal compartment of a refrigerator.

            To maximise the flavour of many spices and to make them easier to grind, heat them gently in a dry pan until they begin to smell fragrant. Take great care not to allow them to change colour, or the flavour will be altered.